Spring in Seville: Orange blossoms, processions, and the season of farewells
- claudiaerne41
- Jun 19
- 8 min read
Hiya. Let me make one thing clear: Spring in Seville is not for the weak. It is a whirlwind of a season that tested every ounce of my social skills, may have induced slight outdoor claustrophobia, and made me want to hibernate in my room for an extended period of time. Yet, I relished it and wouldn't have had it any other way. Here is a recap of some fascinating celebrations that made April so special, along with a few other highlights from this spring.
Let's begin with Semana Santa, or Holy Week. At this point, I had been living abroad for well over a year and had definitely begun to understand how deeply embedded Catholicism is in Spanish culture and history. However, I was further enlightened when I learned how Seville honors Catholic tradition throughout Holy Week, which spanned from March 29 through April 5 this year. The city made way for the festivities, with rows upon rows of chairs having been placed along La Avenida de La Constitución, where spectators sat and watched the pasos, or floats, that are hand-constructed year-after-year by devoted designers.
Holy Week is made up of so many unforgettable moments, but the most notable (and crowded) events, at least to tourists, are the processions. Throughout the week, hundreds of faithful Sevillians walk in a procession, specifically those who belong to a religious brotherhood called a cofradía. These members assume various roles throughout the procession, some holding torches, others covering their faces to stay anonymous to all except God. There are also a select few, called costaleros, who bear the floats and sustain them while walking. This requires practice and immense strength.
(Fun fact: Before I knew what costaleros were, I saw 30+ middle-aged men holding a big wooden structure in the middle of Alameda (a popular outdoor area to have a drink at). Safe to say, my friends and I were confused on what Spanish men get up to on the weekends until our friends provided context.)
My kids had the entire week off, so my schedule was flipped to the morning, giving me time to go out at night and sightsee. I watched a few processions with friends, and I was in awe of the floats. Their design varies based on the corresponding day of the week (for example, birth, death, or resurrection of Jesus.) On Thursday, April 2nd, I went with my host mom and her extended family to watch the kids in their brotherhood's procession! It was surreal to see them in action; we spent about six hours on the street, watching them round corners before hurrying to a different spot to catch another glimpse.
The city is absolutely packed during Holy Week! Not only are several streets blocked off, but the processions also make it impossible to maneuver throughout the city, even on foot. To make matters even more crowded, tourists often travel in to witness the event. Although, I understand. Religious or not, it is an awesome sight to see.
Friday, the 3rd, we headed to Cádiz, where the family has an apartment close to the beach. They invited me to stay with them for the weekend, which was super generous. We surfed (or attempted to), ate pizza, and hung out with the host family's friends.
Cádiz Níspero season! Natalie in front of the old Betis stadium COCODak El Alcázar Makeshift lunch on the way to Málaga The Cathedral
In the days following Holy Week, I celebrated my friend Lauren's birthday, practiced Sevillanas with Regina, and was delighted to learn that the local frutería had nísperos (loquats) back in. These were my best discovery last year, other than nutella biscuits, which I do not eat anymore (because I am slightly ALLERGIC; I'm convinced I ate too many and brought that upon myself). They are a type of fruit native to Asia, now grown throughout the world. I've heard someone call them tropical apricots -- I think that's a sound definition.
I took the youngest to the park quite often, due to the steady temperature increase. We went so consistently that I befriended the regulars and became one myself. And, in mid-April, I welcomed my sister to Seville!
While Natalie was visiting, we "touristed" around Seville, visiting the Royal Alcázar, the Cathedral, and watching a flamenco show at the Carbonería. We ate well at the oldest bar in the city (El Rinconcillo) and at the best Korean place (COCODak) in Seville, where I introduced her to my friends. We also side quested in Málaga, where we walked the Caminito del Rey. The cherry on top of the trip was experiencing the first night of Féria together, which was Natalie's second-to-last day in the city.
La Féria began on Tuesday, April 21 at midnight, with the "Alumbrao," where the archway is officially lit. Natalie and I watched the lighting with friends, and then we explored the fair and the "casetas," or tents. The next day, we took another walkthrough during the late morning and spontaneously danced with some older ladies at one of the public tents. The following morning, Natalie left Seville, and I went with my host family to the Féria, fully decked out in my dress, shawl, espadrilles, and a purple flower. Wednesday marked a regional public holiday so the entire family went for the day. I also stopped in on Friday, since I had to put my Sevillanas classes to good use! The atmosphere was electric, with people out on the street for hours.
I really loved how much everyone was dancing. There were people of all ages and skill levels scattered inside and out, enjoying themselves to the fullest. I've heard many people say, "se vive bien en Andalucía," (life is lived well in Andalusia) and it rings true. Seville, especially, has motivated me to maintain movement in my daily life and to have fun, without fear of how I look while doing it.
While I did have some free time to go to the fair, I was also on kid duty. We made pancakes with nutella, played outside, danced, and watched a couple movies. Right before the fair began, Natalie and I played soccer with the three youngest. The kids were smiling ear-to-ear and they were wowed by Natalie's expertise. Amidst the fair festivities and watching the kids, I continued practicing for my C1 exam. I read and kept on taking practice tests in order to familiarize myself with the exam format. It was more difficult to study the week of the 20th, but I believe I managed it okay.
In May, I explored a new art exhibit and observed all of the plants outside in full bloom. I had the pleasure of walking by the María Luisa park almost every day, where I saw nature ebbing and flowing throughout the year. If I could describe May 2026 in one word, it would be: Flowers. The scent of the Azahar, or orange blossom, fills the streets in springtime, and Seville has some other stunning variations of flowers around the city.
I celebrated a couple birthdays with friends and leaned into creativity as I
made art for my friends. I also caught the tail end of the Berlín premiere at the Setas post-work. The oldest celebrated her 12th birthday and we made a "Tarta de Obleas," which is a cake comprised of wafers and nutella (the kiddos go crazy for nutella, if you can't tell(a)). I attended another farewell picnic; it was the season of goodbyes, unfortunately. I also made four flavors of cookies for friends, whose mom made me a popular Egyptian dish called Koshari.
I went to an outdoor festival along with a 3rd birthday party for my friends' dog, Toffee. There, I brought the homemade cookies and we played card games in Spanglish. We also ate cake! I think I spent almost the whole month outside, and I couldn't have been happier. Indoors, I danced a lot with the youngest; she got obsessed with "Superestrella" by Aitana.
I took the C1 exam! I completed the oral exam on Thursday, the 21st, and then the remaining sections on the 23rd. After the exam was finished, I felt relieved and proud of myself, knowing that I will keep that sense of accomplishment in my pocket regardless of my score come August. Studying for the C1 pushed me further outside my comfort zone than I ever thought possible, inspiring me to meet new people, dare to ask endless questions, and confront my fear of failure. I consumed Spanish media in multiple forms (movies, books, podcasts, newspapers), learning more about Hispanic culture and current events as a whole. I also presented arguments in Spanish that related to immigration, environmental conservation, and technology, among others.
Although I enrolled in Spanish classes, I consider this year to have been another liberal arts education. The topics we discussed in class fed my curiosity; I engaged in a lot of intellectual exploration, letting my interests lead me (as long as I consumed with the content in Spanish).
The day after my exam, I went to the beach in Murcia with some friends; we brought snacks, books, and drinks. We swam and discussed spirituality, music, and philosophy. We rotated the aux in the car on the way home, us each queueing a song we found unique or worth sharing. I remember listening to the music, feeling the whisper of saltwater on my face and the strands of my hair blowing halfway out the window. Gah, it was easily one of the best beach days of spring. C1 classes were fun and interesting these couple weeks as well; we had coffee chats at a nearby cafe two weeks in a row, and we took a field trip to see the Archivos de Indias, a large collection of documents related to the Spanish Empire and its overseas territories.
My friend Emma and her boyfriend Matthew came into town during the last week of May! We saw an official flamenco show, explored Triana, ate tacos at my favorite Mexican restaurant (La Malinche) in town, and simply caught up. I also took Emma and Matt to my local frutería and we taste-tested several different fruit, just for fun. I had to prove how delicious the in-season fruit are in Spain.
Emma and me Felicity's goodbye picnic :( In the Park event! Flamenco show Ayla and me Me, Emma, and Matthew Toffee's 3rd birthday!
April and May were, without a doubt, some of my busiest months this year. Yet, they consisted of my favorite activities: learning, experiencing culture, and quality time with friends. I am especially lucky to have experienced some of Holy Week and the fair alongside my host family, who gave me insight into the nuances of certain traditions in Seville. I look back on my time living with another host family and can't find the words to encompass the full experience, as indefinable and layered as it is.
Being an au pair is so much more than working for and living with a family. Au pairing is walking the line between being a sister, role model, and an authoritative figure. It's developing a working relationship with the parents while also sitting in your pajamas, watching soccer games with them on Thursday nights, or getting to know their extended family over lunch on the weekend. It's being privy to the minute details of the kids' daily lives for eight months, developing a loving bond with them, only to say goodbye, knowing you live thousands of miles away. Occasionally, the dynamic is confusing and uncomfortable. Other times, it's fun, unbelievable, and exciting.
Overall, the experience has been extremely positive. I have learned to be more resilient, adaptable, understanding, and appreciative. Being an au pair is not easy, but it is infinitely rewarding and a true adventure that I already look back on with such fondness. I have learned much more from June in Spain, which I'll touch on in the next post. All you have to do is wait an entire year for me to publish that one!
(jk. maybe a month.)
Thanks for being here. I love sharing these experiences in blog form rather than Instagram, regardless of how many people see them (and regardless of how late they are posted).
With love,
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